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Gelato Talk – meet Stefano Moro, maestro gelataio at Cape Town’s Moro Gelato

Moro Gelato is a real piece of Italian dolce vita in Cape Town and in the process of bringing Italy’s gelato culture to South Africa. At the Woodstock based gelateria, gelato is produced the same way as in Italy and in line with that their artisan produce is sold from pozzetti installed in a beautifully designed cart.

For my first gelato talk session, I had the pleasure talking to gelato chef Stefano Moro of Moro Gelato. Moro Gelato still seems like Cape Town’s sweet Italian secret, hidden away in Woodstock’s Masons Press. Luckily the Moro gelato team can also be found on Saturdays at the Oranjezicht City farm market, as well as their gelato also making it on to an increasing number of dessert menus of restaurants across Cape Town.

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Gelato Talk – meet Mauro, one of the two La Cremosa guys from Rome

Despite having had a lot of positive feedback about Joburg, I was still pleasantly surprised by South Africa’s largest city. After already finding my piece of dolce vita in Cape Town, I was even more surprised to find another authentic piece of dolce vita in Johannesburg. Unlike in Cape Town, where I did my research to find “real” gelato, in Joburg I was lucky to stumble across the La Cremosa mobile gelateria stand and one of the “two guys from Rome” on a Sunday morning at the Market on Main in Maboneng.

With La Cremosa the “two guys from Rome” have made a valuable contribution to Joburg’s foodie scene. They not only brought the know-how and the traditional and authentic Italian family recipes with them from Italy, but also the machines from the family’s gelateria in Rome, which along with the selected ingredients are vital for the high quality artisanal gelato they produce.

With the traditional benchmark flavour pistachio passing the test with flying colours, living up to my expectations when it comes to the taste of fruit sorbet also seemed to be a piece of cake. After being so impressed, I’m now not only grateful to La Cremosa for sweetening my day and stay in Joburg, but also to Mauro for taking the time to answer some questions I had about them and their gelato business.

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How and where did you learn your trade as a master gelato craftsman and how did the idea of La Cremosa come about?

As every Italian kid, I spent many many hours running around gelaterie in Rome. My advantage was that our family’s best friends had a gelateria in Trastevere (downtown Rome) and I had the privilege to spend hours and hours playing with their kid, David Ficini, in their laboratory. That’s how everything started.

30 years later I am still hanging around with David spending all our free time in the laboratory of that gelateria trying to create the best ever gelato.

2 years ago I moved to Joburg for work and that’s also when the idea to start an Italian gelateria came about. The first thing I noticed when I landed in Jozi was that there was no real Artisan Italian Gelato! Together with David and Sandro Tomassetti, a friend of ours from Rome, we packed up some old Italian gelato machines and shipped them to South Africa…

What makes your gelateria so special? What gelato machines do you use and why?

At La Cremosa we are crazy about quality! Fruit is local and fresh, milk is fresh, pistachio and hazelnuts come from selected Italian producers, the same for amarenas. We now have 3 lines: gluten free, vegan and sugar free. Thanks to some of our Italian suppliers we are constantly busy with R&D on products, in order to constantly improve our customers’ experience.

Our gelato machines and freezers come from Italy, as that’s where most of the best manufacturers come from. This is what we need to guarantee the quality of our gelato during the production, storage and sales phases.

What is your opinion on gelateria chains, which are gaining an increasing foothold on the Italian market, and some also expanding internationally?

As every artisan I am proud to say that at La Cremosa we see every single strawberry that we cut and we peel every single mango with our hands before putting the gelato in the batch freezer. That said, I really appreciate some of the “big guys” that are able to offer the same quality of gelato through a different (and much bigger) organisation. It helps to create a market for gelato, especially regarding the international market, which to be honest is crucial!

I definitely get angry when it comes to big chains who sell cheap product but try to market it as the best and genuine gelato in the world.

From our side we try to fight against such dishonest marketing, by educating our customers and giving them all the means to understand what Italian Artisan Gelato is all about.

What tips would you give someone who might want to follow your footsteps and become a gelato craftsman or open their own gelateria?

This job is a great adventure and it can offer great opportunities, especially regarding the international market. It really gives you an insight into the culinary world. Like any other job, if you want to do it right, it needs a lot of dedication and perseverance.

Don’t take short cuts. If you want to make gelato, make a real one and let the world appreciate what it really means. Don’t fall into cheap traps! Pistachios aren’t almonds with green colorants and sorbets aren’t made with industrial flavouring products…

What is your favourite flavour to make?

I love making sorbets. As a reward for all the effort which went into the peeling, the smell of fresh fruit spreads throughout our entire laboratory once it comes out of the batch freezer.

What are the most popular flavours and what’s your favourite flavour to eat?

Our South African customers are in love with pistachio. It’s incredible how many kilos of pistachio they can eat in one day. They also are amazed by all our fruit flavours where they can really feel the fruit pulp and smell the freshness of the ingredients. My favourite flavour has always been “Fior di Latte” – the pure milk gelato!

What makes you proud of the gelato you produce?

We are proud to produce a real gelato made according to our Italian recipe and to use the best quality ingredients.

What challenges have you faced with starting the business?

We struggle everyday to get the ingredients that we like. When we landed in RSA we found many (too many) cheap products that suppliers are used to sell to their clients. We constantly need to educate our customers on what gelato is and why it is different (also in terms of price) from the normal ice cream they are used to.

Do you have any exciting plans for the future?

La Cremosa is now opening 2 new shops in Jozi and already thinking about the next step out of town… very exiting plans. We are now busy with the launch of the sugar free line (made with Stevia) and we are constantly studying new receipt  and products with our Italian suppliers.

What are your impressions of Jo’burg’s gelato / ice cream scene, especially compared to Italy?

Gelato in Joburg…? Ice cream scene is very limited in Jozi. And many cheap products are in the market. I saw very recently some new products (still ice cream and not Italian gelato) that are not bad…I hope that this positive trend goes on.

The big difference with the Italian market is that average customers are aware of what is good and what is not so, in Italy, many bad gelatos have no space. Generally, Italian customers are well educated on the dignity of the gelato and know what to spend many for.

What kind of customers visit your shop, who are your favourite customers and which celebrity would you most like to serve gelato to?

The most frequent customers are over 26. It is generally people with food consciousness that appreciate quality and that are open to have a real Italian experience (we try to stay away from customers that is complain because we do not serve bubble gum ice cream…). I love curious customers that ask, ask and ask about manufacturing processes and about what gelato really means.

I would be very honoured to serve our gelato to Carlo Petrini – the founder of the Slow Food Movement.

Thanks Mauro, for your time answering my questions and your insight into the gelato industry. For anyone in Joburg who loves gelato, doesn’t know what it is yet, or might not have the time or money to escape to bella Italia, go and visit La Cremosa! 


La Cremosa can be found at

– Market on Main, Maboneng Precinct, every Sunday

–  Jackson’s Real Food Market, Bryanston

Online La Cremosa can be found at

www.gelatocremosa.com

facebook: La Cremosa

instagram: Gelato La Cremosa

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What’s the fuss? Gelato or Ice Cream, same same or different?

Growing up, even at the age when I could barely walk, “ice cream” would have been the highlight of pretty much any day. That doesn’t mean that I had a sad boring childhood, but so big was my love of “ice cream”. No… I wasn’t some fat kid constantly looking for the next sugar fix either.

Back in the day during my childhood, including the formative years of my upbringing, despite being a fussy eater, I didn’t make much of a differentiation between ice cream, gelato or any other frozen dessert. It was all “ice cream”. I either liked it or I didn’t, but back then it mainly depended on the flavour.
Nowadays I’m not such a picky eater anymore, but when it comes to “ice cream”, or also coffee (which is another story), I’m everything but easy to please and rather on the picky side. If an “ice cream” isn’t up to par it’s thrown out, as easy as that. Eating ice cream, or better yet gelato, should be an enjoyable experience, an experience to indulge in, and as some people know, an experience I can easily draw out and make it seem I had a serving triple the size of anyone else.

With turning into a bit of a snob when it comes to gelato and coffee, I have learned to differentiate between what’s out there, even if depending who I’m talking to I might still just use the generic term “ice cream”. To help others on the path of enlightenment, here’s a brief glossary of the terminology of frozen desserts. And yes, back to the title, there are some clear differences between ice cream and gelato!

Ice Cream
Looking at the name, it’s not too surprising that ice cream is a frozen food product containing cream. Milk is also often a key ingredient along with other sweeteners and flavourings. Up to 60% of the volume of a container of ice cream one buys is air. This means that if you buy one litre of ice cream, you could actually be buying up to 600ml of air! The light fluffy texture of ice cream is thanks to this air that is absorbed during the mixing process. In the U.S., based on the milk fat contained, ice cream is split into sub-categories, which I will not bore you with.

Gelato
Despite gelato being the Italian word for ice cream it’s not the same thing. I will go into the differences between ice cream and gelato more later, but the key difference is that while ice cream contains up to 60% of air, the amount of air whipped into gelato is only 20%! A more intensely flavoured, denser and (arguably) more delicious dessert is the result.

Sorbet
Unlike ice cream and gelato, sorbet contains no milk or cream. It’s a frozen dessert typically made using puréed fruit, but increasingly more places also offer other sorbets such as coffee or chocolate. I’d expect in large parts, thanks to the vegan and lactose intolerant movements.

Granita
Very similar to sorbet, but granita is not whipped and ice crystals are allowed to form. It has a more granular appearance and a crunchy texture.

Sherbet
Like a sorbet this is a fruit based product, but milk is added for creaminess. But by law it can contain no more than 2% milk fat.

Frozen Yoghurt
Frozen yoghurt is a frozen dessert made with yoghurt and sometimes other dairy products. Due to using milk instead of cream frozen yoghurt has a lower fat content than ice cream.


Gelato vs Ice Cream
Slightly similar to the way artisanal coffee has become so popular, it’s gelato, ice cream’s handsome Italian stepbrother that has been making waves in more countries than just Italy. While I was in London (2004 – 2010) for example, there were barely any gelaterias to speak of and for me Scoop (2007) clearly stood out. However now watching from afar, I believe the gelateria density in London has increased significantly. Partly, the growing popularity of gelato is because it’s novel. And, in line with the foodie movement, people think of gelato as something special made by artisans in a small boutique kitchen or lab, and strictly in small batches.
Without becoming too scientific and hypothesizing about things such as different forms of sugar, here are six secrets (not so secret really) on how to differentiate between gelato and ice cream.

gelato-v-ice-cream1) Fat. With more cream comes more milk fat. Most ice cream tends to have a fat content between 14 and 25%. On the other hand Italian gelato only has approx. 4 – 8% fat.

2) Gelato is creamier, softer, smoother and denser than ice cream. Despite having less fat, the reason for gelato being creamier is that it has significantly less air whipped in during a slower churning process than ice cream. Due to having less milk fat, gelato is lighter and therefore requires less air.

3) Recipe & ingredients. Gelato and ice cream both contain cream, milk and sugar. While these ingredients are the same, ice cream tends to contain a lot more cream. Gelato uses more milk than cream. To hold the ice cream mixture together egg yolks are used a lot more than with gelato, where they often aren’t used at all. Gelato is also more likely to have “real” ingredients such as fresh fruit and nut purees.

4) Temperature. Typically if served correctly, fresh from your local artisan gelateria, the serving temperature of gelato is higher than that of ice cream. If gelato is frozen really cold in a conventional freezer, it becomes rock hard. Gelato is typically frozen at around -10C, giving it a lovely soft consistency. Ice cream is frozen closer to -20C. This also has an impact on the flavour. Ice cream tends to have a less intense flavour as the cold fat coats the tongue and blocks the taste. Gelato melts more quickly allowing the flavour to come through directly and far more intense.

5) Serving style: spatula vs scoop. The serving style is a result of some of the factors mentioned above. Gelato, being served at a warmer temperature, is usually served with a spatula. Ice cream being thicker and heavier due to the higher milk fat content, can easily be served as nice, round and firm scoops.

6) Shelf life. Gelato should be consumed as fresh as possible, ideally within a few days. On the other side, it’s common that ice cream lasts for a few months.

Thanks to Cape Town’s Moro Gelato for highlighting the key differences between gelato and ice cream in a more visually pleasing manner.

Reading between the lines, it’s probably easy to see who’s my favourite. Who do your place your money on? Gelato, ice cream or an outsider?

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